The calm before the storm of further renewal
Why sustainability in safety footwear may seem less visible, but is now more than ever in need of innovation, circularity and smart choices.
The calm before the storm of further renewal
In recent years, sustainability has become an integral part of the way safety footwear is developed and manufactured. Whilst in the early years brands were able to reduce their carbon footprint by picking the low-hanging fruit, we have now reached the stage of tackling more complex issues: how do you reduce the impact of the core materials of the product itself, and how do you achieve circular content (shoe-to-shoe)?
According to Elroy Bongers, Head of Innovation & Sustainability at EMMA Safety Footwear, this is precisely where the greatest challenge lies. “The first steps were relatively clear. But the real impact lies in material choices, product design and return logistics. That is considerably more complicated.”
From visible steps to more complex choices
Between five and ten years ago, the industry began putting sustainability on the agenda, often without a clear long-term vision. In that initial phase, the focus was on improvements that could be implemented relatively quickly; renewable electricity soon delivered a 10 per cent reduction, and, in collaboration with suppliers, components could also be made more sustainable. The next phase is less visible and more complex in substance. The greatest impact of products such as safety footwear lies in the core materials, including leather, PU, rubber and steel. This is also where the most difficult trade-offs arise.
We have reached a point where we must choose between innovating within existing frameworks and developing truly new, out-of-the-box solutions. Within those existing frameworks, we are reaching our limits: recycled or bio-based materials are often more expensive, and their use remains limited to around 30 per cent of the total in order to maintain performance. “You’re looking for something that hardly exists,” says Elroy. “The product must be more sustainable, circular, affordable and deliver the same performance.”
"You’re looking for something that hardly exists: a product that is more sustainable, circular, affordable and performs just as well."
To make progress in this area, in-depth insight into materials, production processes and performance is required. No single factor stands alone; every choice has an impact on weight, lifespan, comfort and costs. It is precisely this interdependence that makes this phase more complex than the initial steps that have been taken.
Increasing market demands
Furthermore, market demands are changing rapidly and the influence of the end-user is growing ever greater. If it were up to the consumer, safety footwear would not only have to protect, but also offer the comfort and style of a trainer. And if this trend continues, we will see collections changing at an ever-faster pace in order to respond to customer preferences. Speed and innovative agility will become increasingly important for a brand to remain relevant.
Quality, comfort and sustainability as recognisable brand pillars
At EMMA, we are undergoing a transition to move closer to the innovative forefront of the industry. We are making a conscious effort to engage with our customers more frequently, we have recruited new talent and are exploring new ways of working to bring products to market more quickly. Amidst this dynamic environment, we believe it is important to remain recognisable as a brand. That is why we base all our product development on our core values: quality, comfort and sustainability.
All EMMA products must continue to perform in practice, even in the long term. This means that durability is a key principle. A shoe that lasts longer does not need to be replaced as quickly and has a lower carbon footprint over its entire life cycle.
This approach is reflected in the E-BOUNCE range. These shoes have been developed with a strong focus on material selection and construction. The use of E-Foam® technology results in a combination of low weight, a low carbon footprint, optimal energy absorption and return, and long-lasting performance. In doing so, EMMA demonstrates how different performance requirements come together in a single product. This approach also helps to reduce the carbon footprint by balancing material use, weight and lifespan.
Conscious choices in the supply chain
EMMA also makes conscious choices within the production chain. We continue to manufacture in the Netherlands, as this is the only way to maintain proper control over product quality and development. However, manufacturing entirely in the Netherlands is no longer feasible within the current market. Requirements regarding comfort, appearance and price mean that part of the production takes place outside the Netherlands. “That is the reality of the market,” says Elroy. “That is why EMMA operates a hybrid supply chain. This combination ensures that we retain control and have the flexibility to respond to changing market demand.”
This decision is in line with broader developments in the supply chain. Global supply chains are no longer a given, and resourcing is becoming increasingly important. For EMMA, this is an additional reason to keep part of its production close to home. Looking to the future, a local presence will remain of great value. “Not only to guarantee quality and stay close to the customer,” explains Elroy, “but also because it is a prerequisite for true circularity. Our proximity to the market will be a key competitive advantage in terms of circularity in the future.”
“The greatest progress is now to be found in what you don’t immediately see, but it is precisely those changes that ultimately make the difference.”
The role of legislation and regulation
In addition to technological and economic challenges, the influence of legislation and regulation is also increasing. New guidelines and obligations add to the complexity and require adjustments to processes and data management.
These days, sustainability is not just about taking action, but also about being able to prove it. That is a positive trend, but it does place significant demands on an organisation. As well as seeking out new materials, it is also important to record data, carry out tests, and manage those results and certificates; the risk is that compliance will slow down development (and thus sustainability), and that is and remains a concern within the European legislative landscape.
As part of the Hultafors Group, we at EMMA are fortunate to find a great deal of support in collaborating with other sustainability managers within the group. This enables us to identify changes at an early stage and ensure compliance is in order in good time.
Investing in the next step
To remain future-proof, EMMA is investing in knowledge, innovation and collaboration. The team has been expanded to include specialists in footwear, materials and sustainability. In addition, EMMA is collaborating with partners throughout the supply chain and building an international network of organisations at the forefront of materials development. By pooling knowledge and expertise, new opportunities arise to take steps that would be difficult to achieve individually. Work is underway on solutions at the material and construction levels, in preparation for further steps towards circularity.
Progress in this phase is less visible than in previous years, but it is precisely here that EMMA is taking the most significant steps. As Elroy sums it up: “The greatest progress right now lies in what you don’t immediately see. But those are the changes that will ultimately make the difference. As a new team, we’re already making wonderful strides forward. We’d love to invite customers to Kerkrade to experience this for themselves. There’s a lot going on and we’ve only just begun!”
Curious to find out what steps EMMA has taken in 2025 in the field of sustainability?